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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.